Monday, 13 February 2012

Not a lot.

Not a lot happened over the weekend, thought the weather would crap out so decided to work Sat and Sun, and try and get a couple of board sessions in in the eves. It appeared not so though, a couple of the boys got down to the Pass on Sat avoided the ming and did a bit of cranking, with a few good ticks going down, nice to see the old mans still got skills ;)

Well anyhow I decided on the 2 pint an hour rule for the weekend, so I put a 3 hour cellar sesh in on Friday night, overan a bit and only just managed to catch the lock in, but being so late that gave me a couple of pint credits. Sat, I had a long day and was still a bit stiff from Friday so I had an easy night, opting to eat large quantities of chicken and use the credits. Sun, more work, but home by 6, so I opted for a quick board session. It was one of those when you feel awful to start, really creaky, and not psyched at all, but after a 45 mins I was really warmed in and pulling quite hard, and up for it again. Crucially the tendonitis in my left wasn't showing and I could fully bear down, so again put about 3 hours in.

Ive got a circuit going now on the system board, 8 exercises/problems that are mirrored, thus 16 problems, each between 5-8 moves, with 2 mins rest between each... so about a 40 minute workout. Its kind of just getting into the power endurance thing, which is not exactly what I want, but I was finding it too hard to stay warm, and I was well.. just getting bored, so shorter rests it is. For the first half though it seems fine, but the second half recovery isnt totally full with the 2 minutes get quicker and quicker. Which means I'm having to really hang in there by the end. Anyhow I like it, seems to be working already, so I'm going to stick with it.

After this, a quick 10mins rest, then I'm into an hour working a few projects. These are vagually devised around a couple of things I'd like to get done. I'm trying to be really strict though and make sure I fully rest between goes.. minute a move job, its so easy to just plow on and blow out on that board. One of the problems is an easier replica of the crux on the longridge reverse (a good grade easier), its taken a couple of weeks to build up the body tension, to be able to throw my foot out on it, but I've got it dialled now. So I've been doing reps on the problem, this should build up my left crimp strength and the stability when I cut loose, and hopefully will translate to the real thing.
Another is super simple right hand small boney crimp and throw through, nearly campusey but not quite. The plan is to get back on a problem at almscliff, I tickled the break a couple of times years ago, when all I did was campus, but never had quite enough to do it. This sort of mimics the move, although my boards a little steeper, but it should relate. Again its a grade or so easier, which should work well for training on, thats when I get round to actually doing it anyway...
What would be good for the board project as well is to link these 2 problems together... 8a/8a+ for sure.

Finished off with half hour or so circuit training.. body tension, pressups, really wide pull ups and stretching..

Ok enough rabbiting, here's a quick vid of said projects if you've got a minute and half to waste..

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